living outside the countneck

I love clams of all shapes and sizes.  I have noticed more and more seafood markets and farmer's markets in the area beginning to carry more varieties than the just the 'common' countneck clam.  Usually new foods in these types of markets don't move well because customers are unfamiliar with how to use and cook them.  If you find yourself at the market and see the long slender wonders that are razor clams or the monstrous, clumsy buggers that are surf clams, you should give them a try and see for yourself why I think these are slightly superior to 'classic' clams.  All clams have their part in delicious food, but all clams should not be considered equal or used quite the same.  You wouldn't necessarily use red leaf in a Caesar salad even though it is still a lettuce, right?  It's not going to ruin your Caesar salad but it's also not the best option.

Razors are beautiful long clams obviously called razors because their shells resemble large, well, razors.  These guys are a little tricky to clean if you want to serve them out of their shell, so for the home cook I recommend roasting in a very hot oven or grilling.  I love these guys in the summer...there really is nothing better than a huge platter of grilled razors topped with a handful of herbs ripped fresh from the garden, some zesty olive oil and an ice cold bottle of pink wine.  Simple is best for these guys as their flavor is sweet and delicate.

Surf clams on the other hand are much richer and bolder in flavor and can withstand all sorts of cooking techniques.  I am partial to a smokey, brothy clam chowder made with thinly sliced surf clams.  My wife loves them in a ceviche.  The benefit to surf clams is they are spectacularly easy to open, no clam knife necessary.  I have attached a short clip on how easy they are to open.  Once opened you can thinly slice them, leave them whole, butterfly them, whatever your heart desires.  My only advice with these clams is to treat them like octopus, either cook them quickly or for a really long time, anything in between and it will seem as if your car tires might be easier to chew.  The bits left on the shell can be scraped and made into a clam stock and the shell itself, once cleaned, is a beautiful way to serve the finished product.