This is the season that I start craving fish as our menu will show. Fish is fun because with fish there is no middle ground in the way I like to prepare them. It's either very simple and delicate or as bold as I would prepare a meat.
I think too many times people sear the life out of a fish and while you get to enjoy a strong flavored, crispy flesh, you also have to choke down the rest of the dried out fish. I love a well poached fish. An exceptionally poached fish is one of those perfect foods I often babble on about. When we get in beautiful ingredients (be it fish, meat or vegetable) we love to let the quality do the talking by preparing that food as simple and subtly complimented as possible.
Now on the other side of the field we often prepare fish as a we would a meat. The polar opposite of delicate. This is because I like to show the versatility of things almost as much as I like to show the quality. When you come into Bistro Les Gras you may see wild king salmon on the menu, but you probably have never had it prepared the way we prepare it (at least that is the intention), maybe we are serving it with a rich chocolate bordelaise or encrusted with pastrami spices. I almost want to force people to try something new or at least in a new light. To be honest, sometimes my plan backfires. I know it's all part of the game. I also know that fish season is here and I am very excited to try some new things this year...
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