Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Reputation

I was watching Top Chef and one of the contestants apparently called out Tom Colicchio for his use of corn-fed beef in his Las Vegas restaurant and for being a spokesman for Diet Coke.  Yes, I watch Top Chef every once in a while.  More so lately thanks to the wonders of tivo and the fact that I am thinking of auditioning.  Personally I don't think I am the personality type for reality tv, but if you hear enough people tell you that you should do something maybe you should.  Anyway, back to the issue at hand.  If you are not familiar with Colicchio, you probably don't watch tv, don't keep up on Food and Wine and don't work in the restaurant industry.  He is considered an American idol (like the way I stuck with the tv theme) and very well should be.  He has embraced the farm to table movement throughout most of his career and has been an important chef in preogressing "New American Cuisine."  I am usually a big supporter of him (based on his culinary reputation not his new found celebrityhood) but after hearing his rebuttal to the accusations, I was a little disappointed.

In my opinion, Colicchio countered the Diet Coke argument well.  He went with the defense that he drinks the beverage and pours the soda in his restaurant so why wouldn't he promote something that he uses.  Ok but it was his response to the beef issue that had me shaking my head.  At first his response was very professional and logical and I was almost sold...until he said that you couldn't have a steakhouse without corn-fed beef.  Why not?  If anyone has the power to do so I would think that he does, especially at this point in his career.  Maybe he did sell out a little.  You make it that far in business and you often come to that crossroads, the money or the morals.  The money road has the most travelers.

I am a firm believer in reputation, which is why I am never on board with the latest fads or the new hot things.  I think that reputation says a lot about who we are.  Sure your branches may lean a little this way or a little that way throughout your life/career, but once you set your roots that is where you should lay.  I do believe too many lay their roots too early in life but that is what our society pushes young people to do, unfortunately. 

I guess I am most disappointed because I know that an insane number of people watch these shows and while he has made huge progress for American cuisine and even more headway in the farm to table battle, his impression was that business and money talks.  I am not as disappointed in his business choice as I am with the way he said it.  He could have seemed a little more upset about the issue or maybe he could of danced around the subject like a politician accused of being unfaithful, I don't know.  I know that my actions as a chef are looked upon by others and in particular younger others.  My menu doesn't have to have corn-fed beef on it.  I am ok with not eating or serving it just because it's cheaper.  That is important to me so why shouldn't it be for my business.  That is the reputation I carry and I am good with that...

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